Always ensure to run a client consultation to check for any infections, allergies or contraindications.
Wash hands thoroughly before touching the clients face.
Allow liquid latex to breath before applying.
Products Used:
- Cleanser, toner and moisturiser
- Supracolour Palette - Red, Yellow, Purple, Blue
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Foundation Palette
- Palette Knife
- Foundation Brush
- Small Brush
- Non Latex Sponge- Glycerin
- Tear Stick
- Stipple Sponge
- Coloured Hair Spray
- Kryolan Eyeshadow Palette
- Duo Lash Glue
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| Sickly skin with a red rash on the chin. |
1. Ensure the face is fully cleansed, toned, moisturised and free from all makeup on the skin.
2. Begin by paling out the skin using a foundation that is two shades paler than the skin tone, apply evenly to the whole face including the neck and ears and anywhere else that will not be covered by a costume.
3. When paling the face ensure to not use a purely white tone as this can look false and strange, make sure to mix in both slightly pink tones and lots of yellow to create a sallow appearance to the skin.
4. Get the model to look downwards, this will expose the natural hollow and bags of the eye. For sickly skin the eye is often blue in thin areas such as underneath eye socket with subtle yellow/purple tones. However do not overdo this otherwise it will appear more like a black eye/bruise than a sense of sickness.
5. Taking a blue shade from the supra colour palette blend underneath the eye with a small shadow brush. Ensuring the ends are buffed out and the colour is more concentrated towards the inner corner of the eye.
6. Apply yellow tones to the lid and buff out.
7. Add additional purple tones to the rest of the socket and again buff out to gently enhance the hollowness of the eye socket.
8. Using a grey/brown colour that is slightly darker than the skins natural tone hollow out areas such as the cheeks (below the bone NOT a fashion contour) and also into the neck to enhance skeletal features.
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| Sweaty hair |
1. Mix a drop of isopropyl alcohol (water will also work if this is unattainable) with a small amount of red supracolour.
2. Add more liquid if required until the substance is watery.
3. Taking a foundation brush (one with stiff enough bristles to flick product effectively) swirl the brush into the liquid.
4. From a small distance and ensuring the models eyes are closed begin to flick the product at the skin to create a patches of small red spots.
5. Allow to dry on the skin.
This technique can also be used to create freckles on the face by changing the supracolour from red to a brown tone.
Sweat:
To create sweat simply apply a thin layer of glycerin to the skin using a stipple sponge, the glycerine will take a while to sink into the skin. Be sure not to apply this to heavy makeup as it will move the product. If glycerine is not at hand baby oil may also be used.
(Water is not effective for long periods of time however it can be used to create sweaty/dirty hair. See image left!)
Chapped Lips
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| Chapped Lips |
2. Get the model to stretch their lips slightly to expose all natural lines and creases.
3. Taking a small sponge apply a thin layer of duo lash glue/liquid latex to the area of the lip that requires the appearance of dryness.
4. When tacky gently pull to create the appearance of chapping exposed edges of skin.
5. Stipple red supracolour onto the skin to enhance the appearance of sore skin around the dry areas, mix in natural tones also to avoid a "lipstick" effect.
This technique can also be used on areas such as the cheeks or nose to create the illusion of dry skin elsewhere on the face.
Evaluation
Overall I was relatively pleased with the outcome of my "sickly" makeup however I feel that the creation of the hollowed eyes was far more successful than that of the chapped skin. I felt that the eyes were effective in creating the illusion of sickness however once I had added the chapped lips I feel it made the whole image appear rather fake. I feel that this is because I use to much of a pink toned red in creating the appearance of sore skin and in addition to this brought the colour to far over the lips therefore making the skin appear more like smudged lipstick rather than that of sore skin. In future I will tone down the amount of colour that I apply to the lip area and add more depth through using slightly different tones and maybe even the use of fake blood to enhance the illusion of scabbing. Despite this however I was pleased with how the eyes and skin in general turned out and felt that the effects work much better on camera than in real life. I now know to trust not just what I see but also how the work photographs to get a rounded perspective of the makeups look.
Dirty Skin - Hands
1. Ensure the hands are free from any cream products that may attract powder/spray to clot together.
2. Get the model to spread their fingers as wide a possible on the hand that requires dirtying down.
3. Spray coloured hairspray in a brown shade from a distance over the fingers.
4. Build up the layers until desired dirtiness is achieved.
5. Get the model to bend their knuckles slightly to avoid patchy areas around the natural folds of the skin.
6. If extra dirt is required take a brown eyeshadow and fluffy brush to apply colour onto areas such as the nails and gaps between the fingers to enhance gathering of dust and mud.
7. If required powders can also be wetted to create the appearance of moist earth which can be then rubbed into the hand.
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| Dirty hands with subtle ageing to the skin - hand age 50 |
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