Thursday 30 April 2015

Thursday 26 March 2015

Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles, Inspired by American Horror Story

Health and Safety: If using a model place apron around the neck to protect clothing. 
Always ensure to run a client consultation to check for any infections, allergies or contraindications.
Wash hands thoroughly before touching the clients face.
Tools Used:
- Tailed Sectioning Comb
- Paddle Brush
- Curling Tongs
- Hair Grips
- Sectioning Grips

Process of Creation: Preparing the Hair
1. Divide the hair into a deep side parting using a sectioning tail comb.
2. Starting at the front of the head divide the crown into three one inch sections from the side with the parting over the centre of the head. Curl each of these sections away from the parting making sure the hair covers the whole tong. 
3. Repeat a second row behind the first and secure each curl with a grip as you go to form a standing pin curl. 
4. On either side of this row of three create another two rolls on each side that both curl downwards.
4. Ensure that each curl sits directly above its parting to give volume.
5. Divide the hair again at the sides of the head following the back of the crown downwards. 
6. Create another two rows of standing pin curls on either side of the face, ensuring that the curls face inwards.
7. Next neated up the division at the back of the head so you are left with an odd ended triangular shape with a small section of loose hair at the nape of the neck on each side. 
8. Again curl these 1 inch sections in towards the face and pin to secure.
9. At the back of the head divide each layer by roughly one inch and proceed to create sets of curls at the back of the head all facing downwards.
10. These curls should sit like brickwork with a row of two, then three, then two so that no continuous divide is visible.
11. Allow all the curls to sit in place once pinned and cool. 

Process of Creation - Maids Hairstyle
1. Remove all the hair pins from the hair apart form those that sit at the top section of the crown e.g. sides and back.
2. Using your fingers brush lightly brush through the curls to make them more defined, you may also wish to go over lightly with a paddle brush.
3. Taking the back section of the hair begin twisting the hair against the curl to form a roll that follows from each ear into the centre of the neck.
4. Twist in the ends and pin securely.
5. Using the end of a tail comb pull gently at the hair to create additional body. If done correctly a neat wave should appear.
6. Remove the grips from the front sections of hair pulling the sides backwards and then pinning further forwards to create a wave.
7. Layer the additional front curls over one another to create a vintage wave at the front of the head.  
Process of Creation - Glamorous Do
1. Taking a paddle brush hold out large sections of curl and gently brush the hair in an over and under motion to form larger, softer waves.
2. Repeat this motion across the whole of the hair. 
3. On the front sections of hair push them slightly forwards on both sides of the parting so that the waves are more defined around the face. 
4. Ensure to play around with the shape of the curls, moving the sections as required to break up any gaps. 
5. If necessary some of the roots may also be backcombed to create extra body to the root of the hair. 
6. Spray to set if required.
Use a paddle brush to brush out the curls, using a over and under motion to get big, smooth curls to form. 

Shaken Out Curls
To create a move interesting hair style that carries heavy 1980's elements to it you can ask the model/shake the dolls head upside down to release all the curls. This will create serious volume at the roots and will also provide beautiful waves at the front of the face.

Evaluation
I actually found the setting of the hair for these styles rather challenging and therefore spent a great deal of time making sure that it was done correctly and to the best of my ability. Obviously with greater practice I will be able to ensure that the speed of my preparation for this style improves along with maintaining the effort and neatness that I put into this first attempt. Although the curls themselves are rather simple, as is the layout once you have got to grips with it, it was essential for the correct amount of volume to be allowed within the hair so that it sat correctly on the head when in  a finished style, because of this I opted to use slightly smaller tongs that the rest of the class however I felt this worked to my advantage as I was able to create body and much more elaborate waves in the finished result. My favourite element of the first hairstyle has to be that of the back of the head which provides a nice example of the wave I was able to achieve by taking time over the positioning and size of my curls. In addition to this is the final style which was by far my favourite, this style had an immense amount of volume and I really liked how the curls turned out. I did not really like the second style however I feel this would be an excellent choice for my Mrs Laderman character who is aimed to be within her 40s/50s so would be appropriate for a vintage setting.

Thursday 19 March 2015

Creating Light Scaring, Using Molds, How to Attach to the Skin, How to Colour

Health and Safety: If using a model place apron around the neck to protect clothing. 
Always ensure to run a client consultation to check for any infections, allergies or contraindications.
Wash hands thoroughly before touching the clients face.
Products Used:
- Prosaide Adhesive 
- Gelatine Moulded Wound
- Witch Hazel
- Cotton Buds
- Stipple Sponge (Orange) 
- Fake Blood
- Wound Filler
- Supracolour Palette (reds, blacks, yellows)
- Fixing Spray
Translucent Powder

Process of Creation
1. Ensure the area for application is clean and free from dirt and product. 
2. Cut prosthetic to size and choose area of application.
3. Paint a thin layer of Prosaide to both the area of application and the back of the prosthetic. 
4. Apply the prosthetic to the skin and press firmly ensuring that all edges have been securely stuck to the surface of the body. 
5. Taking a cotton bud begin to rub witch hazel around the edges of the prosthetic, ensure to push securely into the gelatine to melt the edges away into the skin. 
6. Once edges have been merged with the skin apply a fair amount of translucent powder to seal any tacky surface. 
7. Using an orange stipple sponge begin to apply red tones to the prosthetic. 
8. Enhance using purple, black and yellow tones if bruising is visible. 
9. Apply a fixative spray to secure in place. 
10. Using a small brush work some wound filler into the opening of the prosthetic. 
11. Apply fake blood into the wound last. 

 Evaluation
To be honest I actually found this process rather challenging and time consuming although the final results were effective. The more I work with special effects and prosthetics the more I realise how much I need to improve my skills, talking in particular about colouring and blending the edges which I always feel is not done to the best of my ability. Although the edges of this prosthetic were done better than my previous attempts (apart from the left facing side) my colouring is still to heavy handed and I feel that this makes the prosthetic visibly false. In particular to this image I feel that there is visibly to much red and despite blending out the colour my initial heavy application meant that the colour simply moved up the arm more as I worked it. In future I will apply less product and focus more on blending out the edges of the prosthetic to ensure that the makeup stays with realistic elements. Despite this I feel that the wound itself is rather successfully done and the benefits of mould making would be of great use for continuity purposes although this is not something we have learnt fully yet. In addition to this is how by simply adding some fake blood (of appropriate consistency) the makeup becomes more realistic than when it is left unfinished, however I do feel that I went completely overboard on adding red tones to this prosthetic and if I was to repeat it in future I would tone down the level of pigment that I apply to the piece and examine from a distance to see how far my makeup has spread. 
Cut arm with open wound

Wednesday 18 March 2015

Dark Eyes and Lips

Health and Safety: If using a model place apron around the neck to protect clothing. 
Always ensure to run a client consultation to check for any infections, allergies or contraindications.
Wash hands thoroughly before touching the clients face.
Products Used:
- Nivea Rich Moisturiser
- Inglot Satin Primer
- MAC Full Coverage Foundation
- Dermacolour Concealer
- Illamasqua Powder
- Kryolan Brow Kit
- MAC Paintpot - Painterly
- MAC Eyeshadows (Coppering, Naked Lunch)
- Illamasqua Neutrals Palette (Brown, Black)
- Kryolan Gel Eyeliner 
- Max Factor 2000 Calorie Mascara
- Kryolan Mini Rouge Palette - Bronze 
- Illamasqua Contour Kit
- Illamasqua Blush (Hussy)

* TOP TIP - When applying a dark eye it is acceptable to apply the base makeup last as to avoid muddying up the foundation. This will ensure a clean complexion. 
Process of Creation:
1. Run a client consultation form to check for any allergies, medication or contraindications. 
2. Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face ensuring that all remaining makeup has been cleared from the skin. 
3. Begin by applying MAC paint pot to the lid as a base for the makeup.
4. Taking the lightest colour first begin applying eyeshadow to the centre of the lid building up the density in layers.
5. Between each tone do not forget to blend out the edges of the colours. 
6. Continue applying the darker tones, ensuring that the darkest tone is left for the main eyelid. 
7. Bring the darker tone underneath the lower lashes and continue to blend the edges. 
8. If applying eyeliner do so by adding liner to the upper lash line and smudging it out with a fluffy brush. 
9. This can also be applied to the lower lash line.
10. Apply mascara and enhance the eyebrows. 
11. Now you can focus on the skin.
Applying Base
12. Prime the face. 
13. Taking a foundation of your choice apply all over the face, avoiding the eyes area and buff out to ensure a perfect application. 
14. Conceal any imperfections. 
15. Powder all over with translucent powder. 
16. Apply blush and contour to the cheeks to bring additional colour into the skin.
Lips
17.  Using a lip brush and a colour of choice line the lips and fill in, 
18. Blot 
19. Repeat application to ensure long lasting results. 

Evaluation:
Overall I was pleased with how my final look turned out and feel that this look supplies a good example of how my technical skills are improving. When creating this design I did not want to do a traditional smokey eye of browns and blacks, therefore I instead opted for rusty plum tones that would better compliment my models complexion and green eyes. In regards to the eye makeup I actually preferred how it looked without the application of eyeliner as the makeup was softer and more romantic in appearance as opposed to that of the eyeliner which added a far more grungy element to the makeup. One element that was much improved within this task was the application of both mascara and lip makeup which I felt was far neater and professional in its final look. This is definitely due to continuous practice and was previously an element that I struggled with significantly. 

Image Left: Without eyeliner applied 
Image Right: With eyeliner applied as a flick and smoked outwards
Finished Look

Friday 13 March 2015

Evaluation of Continuity Unit

Evaluation of First Part of Unit
Overall I feel that the first part of this unit was relatively successful and in all I was pleased with the final result of my character designs overall. For me I found this unit rather creatively restrictive however I feel this is purely down to the fact that I have such an in depth understanding of ‘Great Expectations’ and therefore wanted to develop my designs into more artistic interpretations that may not have been understood by other audiences. I found this a problem in particular with Miss Havisham’s creation as through my analysis on a critical perspective of her character I became focused on wanted to create an interpretation different from the normal aged depictions. Although I was pleased with my final design I feel creatively I would like to have done more but may have lost touch with the realism needed for purpose of film continuity. In that respect working to a brief was initially challenging however I feel that when it then came to creating my Estella I had a significantly better understanding of what was expected. I was able to overcome difficulties such as my model having bright red hair, tattoos and piercings to create an authentic interpretation of the characters required. From this unit however I have discovered that I really struggle with continuity and need to refine my eye more as what I see in real life is not what is seen in my final images. This is an issue I need to amend, however because of my difficulties I took it upon myself to also create the character of Magwitch to fully demonstrate my understanding of the novel and brief.  

Thursday 12 March 2015

Creating Estella

Health and Safety: If using a model place apron around the neck to protect clothing. 
Always ensure to run a client consultation to check for any infections, allergies or contraindications.
Wash hands before touching the clients skin. 
Products / Makeup & Hair:
- Inglot Satin Primer
- Mac Pro Full Coverage Foundation
- Concealer Palette
- Translucent Powder 
- Vaseline

- Red Lipmix
- MAC Eyeshadow (Naked Lunch)
Kryolan Powder Blush
- Paddle Brush

- Hair Extensions
- Segmenting Clips
- Tail Comb

- Kirby Grips
- Hair Tie
- Ribbon
- Hairspray 


Process Of Creation (Makeup)
1. Run a client consultation form to check for any allergies etc. 
2. Cleanse, tone and moisturise the face.
3. Apply a primer to the skin.
4. Apply foundation to the face and neck.
5. Buff!
6. Set foundation with translucent powder. 
7. Sweep MAC eyeshadow over the lids. 
8. Brush through eyebrows using a clean mascara wand.
9. Apply vaseline and red lip mix to the lips. 
10. Sweep soft pink powder blusher onto the apple of the cheeks only. 

Process of Creation (Hair)

1. Brush exposed hair through to remove all knots and tangles. 
2. Divide the hair into a centre parting and then from ear to ear.
3. Clip hair extensions into the hair from each side of the ear to ear parting making sure their is an even amount of hair at both the front and back of the head.  
4. Take the models own hair and twist it into a mid height bun. 
5. Divide the back section of hair into six and plait each section individually. 
6. Twist each plait round to create a large bun. 
7. Take the front section of hair at the front of the face and divide into a middle parting. 
8. Plait the front section into a basket plait beginning from just below the eye. 
9. Repeat on the other side. 
10. Bring these plaits loosely backwards to hand just below the ear and looping back upwards into the bun behind. 
11. Tie the ribbon around the head to cover the clips of the extensions. 
12. Fix with hairspray.